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A cleaner way to drive

EV is back on the road with new improvements

It took about 2 weekends to repair the damages caused by the CV drive shaft coming loose. I had to first take all the batteries in the rear compartment out. Then take the motor and transmission assembly out so that I can clean the oil out of the damaged section on the transmission for welding repair.

After talking to the owner at a local transmission shop Pete’s Gear Shop and my welder friend, I decided to epoxy weld (JB weld) the cracked transmission case instead of doing an aluminum weld repair.

First, I had to drain out the transmission oil completely, then use brake cleaner to clean out the area to be welded (be careful with brake cleaner, it is nasty stuff.)

Once that’s done, sand the area with some coarse sand paper and then apply the 2 part epoxy.

I also had to order a new CV shaft since the old one had a crack in the mounting plate and had lost its cover.

I also had to replace the cracked differential oil seal.

Repaired motor/transmission assembly ready to be mounted again!

The JB weld repair worked surprisingly well based on my past month of driving.

Since I had to take apart everything for the repair. I took the opportunity to make some improvements to the car that had been on my todo list:
1. Got the stock tachometer working to display the motor RPM, this actually was harder then I thought it would be, see below for details.
2. I installed a modified curtis 1231C controller that is capable of outputing a max of 750amps of current compared to 500amps stock. This theoretically gives me 190 ft-lbs of take off torque as opposed to 110 ft-lbs. The car performs much better than before!
3. Ran wires for remote trunk open and keyless door entry and alarm. Now the car is much more convenient to drive!
4. I also found the check engine light signal wire and connected it to the motor overheat switch so that if the motor ever overheats, the check engine light will come on to let me know.

I purchased this speed sensor kit to drive my stock tachometer. My Advanced DC FB4001A motor has an auxilary shaft that I can use to signal the speed sensor. Here are some pictures of the mounts that I made for the speed sensor.

After wiring everything up, it took a while to figure out that the signal generated by the speed sensor is too low to drive the stock tachometer because the stock gauge took a much higher amp gain signal from the igniter. I got some tips from this MR2 forum to change out a couple of the resistors on the tachometer and it works!

I had to modify the stock tachometer by replacing the largest resistor 33K to 20k and the second largest resistor 30k to 10k.

After getting it to work, I calibrated the tachometer with an inexpensive digital tachometer from amazon

750A controller
My controller is mounted inside the rear compartment on the passenger side of the car where the original fan driven air intake used to be.

The controller itself is mounted on an aluminum plate that has a 12V DC fan mounted on the other side.

The fan is on whenever the ignition is on.

Check Engine light signal wire found and wired to the motor overheat switch.


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Posted in Controller, DriveTrain, Instrumentation, MR2EV, Reliability, Tachometer, Transmission

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